Lucy's Bag o' Donuts

Lucy's Bag o' Donuts

TASTE Pavilion, $5/6-pack

Throughout the summer, Seattle Art Museum has been hosting a Thursday evening farmers' market at the Olympic Sculpture Park. I can barely think of anything more Seattle-esque: stalls of fresh produce and specialty foods with a dance floor and live music on one side, public sculpture, Puget Sound and the Olympic mountain range on the other.

I'd like to say that I showed up for the last market of the year thinking of heirloom apples or organic chard, but really, I went for the doughnuts.

At the tiny stall operated by SAM's restaurant, TASTE, pastry chef Lucy Damkoehler has made a weekly tradition of creating a seasonal, locavore doughnut based on current market offerings. Her earlier flavors included s’mores, bacon and brown sugar, and sweet corn crullers, each highlighting a local product such as Finnriver flour, Skagit bacon and eggs, and Alverez corn.

For the farewell market Damkoehler offered an autumn-tinged doughnut flavored with Finnriver's apple cider. The tartness sliced through the grease and a generous dusting of sugar, adding a crisp and high-toned complexity to what would already have been a pretty stellar cake doughnut. A perfect comfort food for those of us looking forward to the coming of fall while still pining for a summer that never quite was.

Manhattan Special

Manhattan Special

Five or six years ago, I was visiting friends in Brooklyn when I heard vague rumors about a locally made coffee-flavored soda with an historic pedigree. I set my sights on this exotic new quarry, trekking from corner store to bodega to corner store in a futile search for "Manhattan Special". Most people had heard of it; nobody had it to sell. My frenzy culminated in an act of sweet-toothed stalking: I bused over to Williamsburg and knocked on the factory door.

And knocked again. And again.

The guy who eventually answered the door was surprised to find a tourist in search of soda, and politely regretful that he couldn't direct me to a single neighborhood store that would have Manhattan Special in stock.

I admitted defeat and left town. When I eventually tried Manhattan Special it was in Oregon, of all places, where a neighbor nostalgic for her East Coast childhood had taken to special ordering it by the case. It tasted more or less like what I always expected coffee would taste like before I'd ever had any: a little fizz and a lot of sweetness rounding off the bitter espresso's sharp edges. The "secret recipe" dates from 1895 and is heavy on coffee beans and cane sugar (the exception being the modern diet version, which contains NutraSweet). The label appears to date from about 1922, and is heavy on drama, verve, and allusions to Rudolph Valentino.

Fast forward to 2010, and Manhattan Special is still in production, still a nostalgic novelty, but now somewhat easier to find thanks to internet sales and growing interest in niche and vintage foods. In this NYT article, read more about the brother and sister behind Manhattan Special, who took over the family business as teenagers after their father's murder.

"Sweet Travel" Show

First there was Sweet Travel, the blog...now there's Sweet Travel, the show (not to be confused with "Sweet Travel! The Musical," debuting in 2014).

From now through September, a selection of my photographs from Japan is on display at Fresh Flours' Phinney Ridge location. The centerpiece is a 44-photo mural made up of individual wagashi portraits (above).

Fresh Flours is a lovely little coffee shop that features Japanese-inflected baked goods. It's also right across the street from Tokara and sells her wagashi on the weekends.

You can also see the show online by visiting my Flickr set.

Fresh Flours

6015 Phinney Ave N

Seattle, WA

206/297-3300

Macarons

Macarons

Bakery Nouveau, $1.50

In a previous post I wrote about how almond croissants from West Seattle's Bakery Nouveau can spur total strangers into acts of kindness. Here, their macarons, which the bakery itself labels "macaroons" and hints may the best this side of Paris. Shown are pistachio, chocolate, and raspberry.

USS Stennis Danish

USS John C. Stennis Danish

Of the many fascinating displays at the Puget Sound Navy Museum in Bremerton, WA, I was most struck by an exhibit about life on board the aircraft carrier USS John C. Stennis. I learned about 1-minute showers (as opposed to the leisurely "Hollywood" variety), tried tucking myself in for the night in a claustrophobic bunk more like a metal dresser drawer, and got a taste of slingshot launches from a fighter pilot's perspective.

Considering that the crew of over 5000 chows down on nearly 17,000 meals a day, a corner of the exhibit is fittingly devoted to the challenges of producing that much food on a ship in the middle of the ocean. From notes left in the comment book by sailors and their families, I gather that the museum's model food (such as the plastic danish, above) looks a little better than the real thing but probably tastes about the same.

Tokaragashi V

Tokaragashi V

Since I bought Tokara's seasonal wagashi at almost the same time last year, this box gave me the pleasure of recognizing an old favorite along with the thrill of discovering two new delights.

I was too slow to check Tokara's website for the correct names and descriptions, so apologies for being a bit vague. The modernist flower (above) was soft, translucent mochi, decorated with petal marks seared in by a branding iron and tiny cubes of kanten jelly for abstract drops of morning dew. Inside, a black sesame paste--pungent, dry, and velvety as halva.


















A bundled-up bamboo leaf unfurled to reveal a fu manju (above), a dumpling of steamed wheat gluten, flavored with grassy yomogi and tucked around a core of sweet, chunky red beans.

Last but not least, the "old friend", Gourd (below): matcha-flavored white bean paste inside a molded kanten jelly textured with crushed, cooked rice.

To see more of Tokara's beautiful creations:
Tokaragashi I
Tokaragashi II
Tokaragashi III
Tokaragashi IV

Cascadian Farm

Raspberry Shortcake
Cascadian Farm, $4.50

How's this for a summer treat? Shortcake with fruit and whipped cream, purchased from a hobbit house sitting in the middle of lush berry fields and eaten at a sun-baked picnic table. If I had read the U-pick schedule before I ordered I would have chosen in-season blueberries; since raspberries peak earlier in the summer, the one disappointment was that the berries in my shortcake weren't quite thawed.

Even if you've never been to Rockport, WA, you've probably seen Cascadian Farm's organic products on the shelves at your grocery. Although the company is now massive and diverse, the u-pick fields and farm stand tell the story of Cascadian's small start in 1972 as a pioneering organic farm.

Cascadian Home Farm
55749 State Route 20
Rockport, WA

Methow Vallery Energy Balls

Methow Valley Energy Balls

The Mazama Store, $3.50/6

For a rural provisioner, the Mazama Store (below) has plenty to tempt even the best-fed city dweller. I lingered over the bakery case and the candy aisle, but finally chose a plastic baggie of Energy Balls, hand-rolled on the premises.

Each of the different flavors is named for a nearby landmark and comes printed with some local trivia. I picked "The Hidden Treasure Variety":

"The Hidden Treasure mine was one of the most prominent mines located within the Squaw Creek District. A coffee bean serves as the hidden treasure in these Energy Balls--perfect for that early morning on the trail...or by the fire!"

Or for the reluctant drive back to the city.

"Hidden Treasure" energy balls contain peanut butter, cocoa powder, honey, whole coffee beans, and unsweetened coconut.

The Mazama Store

50 Lost River Road

Mazama, WA 509/996-2855

Hungry for more travel-related food posts? How about food-friendly travel posts? You'll find both at Wanderfood Wednesday...

Rockinghorse Bakery

Plum Bear Claw

Rocking Horse Bakery, $2.50

The "wild west" town of Winthrop, WA, is one of those places that can really challenge your ideas about reality. After thousands of years as a bustling hub of Native American activity, and a century of frenetic fur-trapping and gold-rushing, Winthrop's fortunes had tapered off by the mid-20th century.

Then, in the early 1970s, locals decided to use a large bequest to give their sleepy little town a "Wild West" facelift. They installed boardwalks and saloon doors, gave all the downtown buildings quaint new fronts, and hung pre-weathered, hand-painted business signs. Not coincidentally, the makeover was completed about the same time as the new state highway; the steady stream of tourists continues to this day.

Like the town itself, the Rocking Horse Bakery represents scrappy self-reinvention. Seven years ago, Dave Swenson and Meghan Sullivan lost the lease the Rocking Horse Ranch in Mazama, the family property where Sullivan was raised. Swenson had already been doing some commercial baking to supplement their winter income, and at that time Winthrop didn't have a dedicated bakery, so they decided to try their luck. They named their new enterprise after the family ranch--managing to move forward without turning their backs on the past.

In addition to the pastries, loaves, and pizzas for sale at their shop (such as the flaky, flavorful bear claw above), Rocking Horse supplies several local restaurants. Reading the menus posted around town, I noticed more than one eatery touting its use of Rockinghorse Bakery bread.

Other notable Winthrop treats include the huge selection of imported candy and gourmet chocolate bars at Winthrop Motors, and the homemade ice cream and sweets at Sheri's Sweet Shoppe (there just had to be a "shoppe" in there somewhere, right?).

Rocking Horse Bakery
265 Riverside Avenue
Winthrop, WA
509/996-4241

Cherry Hibiscus Ice

Cherry Hibiscus Ice

Mazama Community Market, $1.25

Located in northeastern Washington's isolated Methow Valley, the town of Mazama boasts a population of 230--most of whom turn out for the Wednesday evening Community Market. As you might expect from an area that's equally attuned to the needs of hikers, skiers, wine connoisseurs, and libertarians, Mazama's residents are sporty, colorful, creative, and into having a good time.

While enjoying acoustic covers of Dylan and Grateful Dead songs and keeping one eye on the vegetable sculpture contest (for kids only, sigh), we wandered around the ring of stalls to check out all the goods on offer. Apparently, there are no limits on who can open a stall or on what they can sell. There were jars of honey and slices of pizza, t-shirts and crafts, a couple of mini yard sales, several people selling surplus produce from their gardens, girls offering custom bracelets, and a kid at an actual Kool-Aid stand unexpectedly selling pudding. Dogs wandered freely, sometimes chewing on hunks of cauliflower discarded by the vegetable sculptors.

One stall had a pretty impressive wooden sign advertising chicha tea, which I'd never heard of. The seller explained how she got into chicha and how it's really great and delicious, then admitted that she'd forgotten her tea at home. Instead, she had tubs of homemade fruit ices. I had the cherry hibiscus, which was lovely, with the sweetness of a jamaica soda and chunks of sour cherry.

Himmelska

Himmelska
Svedala Bakery, $2

When the Svedala Bakery's tiny stall in Pike Place Market shut down last November, I feared I'd seen the last of their impeccable mazarin, biskvi, katalan, and limpa. I was thrilled to rediscover Svedala at the Thursday night Queen Anne Farmers' Market. Although under new ownership, Svedala is still turning out homestyle Swedish treats using traditional recipes and high-quality ingredients. I celebrated with a himmelska, a thin slab of fudgy brownie topped with a lacy layer of caramelized coconut macaroon.

Svedala's baked goods can also be found at some Whole Foods. And on Fridays, Svedala sells smörgåsar sandwiches at Seattle's Swedish Cultural Center.

Mukhwas

Mukhwas

Mukhwas is to South Asian restaurants as starlite mints are to all-American, all-you-can-eat buffets. Dispensed from bowls conveniently placed near the register, these sweet little breath-fresheners also have digestive properties that can take the edge off a heavy meal.

In India and Pakistan, there are about a thousand different mukhwas recipes, most based on fennel or anise seeds. Mukwas can be sweet or savory and often includes aromatic oils such as peppermint or cinnamon. Some mixes look deceptively like confetti; others, like potpourri.

Although I've eaten plenty of mukhwas since starting this blog, it had never occurred to me to write about it until today, and I'm motivated mostly by the need to work through a weird experience I had on a day trip to Bremerton, WA. At a deserted downtown restaurant, I had some of the most delicious Indian food I've ever eaten, paired with what might be the most contemptuous service I've ever experienced. Our chana masala, palak paneer, and garlic naan were superlative--perfectly spiced and full of small but recognizable chunks of fresh and flavorful ingredients. Our server, on the other hand, was consistently hostile and brusque--but earned style points by having mastered the art of refilling water glasses without taking her eyes off the blaring TV on the far side of the room.

By the time we had finished and paid I wanted nothing more than to run for the door, but I made myself take a quick detour past the bowl of mukwas. Then I enjoyed my handful in the more welcoming atmosphere of the street outside. The toasted fennel seeds were so heavily candy-coated that they looked like reject TicTacs, but they were an effective antidote to the bitter taste in my mouth.

In the days since I've thought a lot about this experience and my reaction to it, and I've realized how much of my interest in food stems from its being a fundamentally social product. I work in retail food service, and I acknowledge that it's a challenging field and that everyone (especially me!) has their bad days, but I'm thinking more and more about whether anything can taste equally delicious whether served with a smile or with a snarl.

Although I usually include supplier contact information in my blog posts, I'm going to leave off the name and address of this restaurant. If you find yourself in downtown Bremerton with both a strong psyche and a strong appetite, I'm sure you'll be able to find it.

"Summer Treats" Mural

Across from the city hall in Bremerton, WA, there is a wall of painted murals celebrating "Summer Treats". My favorite: this blueprint for the perfect ice cream cone--including provisions for "erosion control"!

Desserts by Holly

Desserts by Holly
Pilchuck Glass School, Summer 2010

Although dessert wasn't on my mind (for once) when I jumped at the chance to attend Pilchuck Glass School, they now feature heavily in my mental scrapbook, nestled quietly but comfortably between shots of liquefied glass and other swaggering pyrotechnics. While Pilchuck is known for the quality of its food, in practice it's a matter of who happens to be in the kitchen. The sweet-toothed glass students of 2010 have an ally in Holly Fox.

I was mostly too hurried or too hungry during my time at Pilchuck to document Holly's work sufficiently, but I appreciated every installment. Working with glass did not come naturally to me, and I spent much of the session feeling anxious, frightened, and down; I cannot overstate the comfort I derived from a slice of blueberry tart, a bowl of fruit shortcake, or a pocketful of no-bake peanut butter oat cookies.

Of all the session's sweets, it's the macaroons (above) that still have their hooks buried deep in my taste buds: crisp-tender golden haystacks of shredded coconut and toasted almond slivers, skirted with dark chocolate. When I asked if she would share her recipe, Holly apologized for not having used one. The macaroons were simply an elegant response to an array of demands: some coconut and some egg whites needed to get used up and a dessert needed to get made. The way Holly tells it, she just stirred in some sugar and the macaroons practically made themselves.

Holly also gives stylish haircuts and sews stylish bags (and torn trousers). When I asked her what kind of training she'd had for any of this, she said she owed her abilities to her mother's good example. It struck me that she has experienced the same journey--from apprenticeship, to competence, to creativity--undertaken by many good glass artists.


Want to hear more about my Pilchuck experience?

Red Huckleberries

Red Huckleberries

Huckleberries are adorable and taste like heaven, but perhaps even better, they make you aware of and thankful for being in the right place at the right time. Since attempts to cultivate them have not come to much, luck is practically one of their flavor notes.

Many years ago on a summer trip through the Smokies my parents and I stopped at a little roadside restaurant for some lunch. When we asked about dessert our server said all of the menu items were sold out but she guessed there was a serving of huckleberry cobbler left in kitchen, just something they made for themselves out of berries from out back and not as pretty as the menu desserts, but we were welcome to try some. It was The Best Cobbler I have ever eaten. Blueberries and blackberries have a lot going for them, but somehow huckleberries manage to pack an unparalleled amount of flavor and complexity into a tiny package. Maybe wildness is the secret ingredient.

The huckleberries that grow on the Pilchuck Tree Farm in northern Washington state are of the red variety and tarter that the blues I've eaten before, but just as delicious. Like the salmonberry, the nutritious huckleberry was a major player in Native American diets. It was eaten fresh, dried, or mixed with other ingredients such as salmon roe.